Alcoutim and Sanlucar
Hmmm, the last couple of posts have been wordy so let's start things off with some photos and further down if you want to, you can read a little more about this amazing place.
Our guide book to Alcoutim (Portuguese side of the river) does not lie when it says one of the first impressions to the visitor is an air of tranquillity. Well we could not agree more, and with or without a sailboat this is a place to put on your must do list.
Human settlements date back 5000 years, but in the 2nd Century BC it was with inevitability that the Romans spotted the potential for the rich mineral resources, and iron ore foundries were set up to trade with parts of the Mediterranean. Of course over time it was conquered many times over. The name Guadiana comes from the Roman term Ana, and the Arabs added Uadi. Then it was known for a while as the Odiana river, and no doubt after some home brew the name Guadiana was invented and has stuck to this day.
What is unique is the river is a natural border between two countries, Spain and Portugal, and Alcoutim and the Spanish village of Sanlucar are opposite each other. Both villages have a castle, and artillery duels in the 17th century were not uncommon. It was also a place for smugglers to ply their trade, as the outlying villages were very poor. Many things we take for granted would have been valuable commodities back in the day, for example, almonds, figs, wheat and other cereals as well as eggs and strangely, coffee.
Today things could not be more contrasting however, if you want to see smuggling happening everyday just stand near the border of Spain and Gibraltar and watch as a size 10 lady turns into a size 16 stuffed with concealed bundles of cigarettes!
Our guide book has given us an insight into local cuisine but although we have tried hard to buy and cook local produce, we have not been adventurous enough to sample the delights of stewed eels, grilled shad and chicken with blood sauce. We do however, make a point of visiting the local market in Alcoutim every Saturday. Of course it is nothing like a supermarket that we take for granted. You can only buy the produce that is available. If what you want is out of season, tough! The butcher works out of the back of a van and bits of meat fly off in all directions, much to the delight of the local dog and cat community. We normally purchase a whole chicken to barbecue on our Cobb, as well as a long strip of pork spare ribs. Fair to say that Lynne has got the ribs down to a fine art. 25 to 30 mins in the pressure cooker, and then 15 mins in a hot oven. The meat is so tender it melts in your mouth, and we usually serve these with garlic and mushroom rice to which the cooking juices have been added. Delicious!
Whilst we have chosen to anchor up river away from the villages, it only takes us 15 minutes to get to the shops and the views and the peace we have more than makes up for the longer commute. That is not to say our social life has taken a back seat, far from it. We visit Alcoutim every Wednesday night for music festival, and sometimes stop along the way for drinks on board Mistroma with Mike and Lynne. Then there is open mike night at the Riverside Tavern on Friday nights, and it is hard to step foot in either Sanlucar or Alcoutim without running into a fellow yottie. Not forgetting the lovely local Portuguese lady Candida, who on over hearing our plight to get petrol one day in the library, took us to her home and gave us a lift to the petrol station! You know when you read the bad headlines in the news, coming to places like this and meeting the local people soon restores your faith in humanity.
Human settlements date back 5000 years, but in the 2nd Century BC it was with inevitability that the Romans spotted the potential for the rich mineral resources, and iron ore foundries were set up to trade with parts of the Mediterranean. Of course over time it was conquered many times over. The name Guadiana comes from the Roman term Ana, and the Arabs added Uadi. Then it was known for a while as the Odiana river, and no doubt after some home brew the name Guadiana was invented and has stuck to this day.
What is unique is the river is a natural border between two countries, Spain and Portugal, and Alcoutim and the Spanish village of Sanlucar are opposite each other. Both villages have a castle, and artillery duels in the 17th century were not uncommon. It was also a place for smugglers to ply their trade, as the outlying villages were very poor. Many things we take for granted would have been valuable commodities back in the day, for example, almonds, figs, wheat and other cereals as well as eggs and strangely, coffee.
Today things could not be more contrasting however, if you want to see smuggling happening everyday just stand near the border of Spain and Gibraltar and watch as a size 10 lady turns into a size 16 stuffed with concealed bundles of cigarettes!
Our guide book has given us an insight into local cuisine but although we have tried hard to buy and cook local produce, we have not been adventurous enough to sample the delights of stewed eels, grilled shad and chicken with blood sauce. We do however, make a point of visiting the local market in Alcoutim every Saturday. Of course it is nothing like a supermarket that we take for granted. You can only buy the produce that is available. If what you want is out of season, tough! The butcher works out of the back of a van and bits of meat fly off in all directions, much to the delight of the local dog and cat community. We normally purchase a whole chicken to barbecue on our Cobb, as well as a long strip of pork spare ribs. Fair to say that Lynne has got the ribs down to a fine art. 25 to 30 mins in the pressure cooker, and then 15 mins in a hot oven. The meat is so tender it melts in your mouth, and we usually serve these with garlic and mushroom rice to which the cooking juices have been added. Delicious!
Whilst we have chosen to anchor up river away from the villages, it only takes us 15 minutes to get to the shops and the views and the peace we have more than makes up for the longer commute. That is not to say our social life has taken a back seat, far from it. We visit Alcoutim every Wednesday night for music festival, and sometimes stop along the way for drinks on board Mistroma with Mike and Lynne. Then there is open mike night at the Riverside Tavern on Friday nights, and it is hard to step foot in either Sanlucar or Alcoutim without running into a fellow yottie. Not forgetting the lovely local Portuguese lady Candida, who on over hearing our plight to get petrol one day in the library, took us to her home and gave us a lift to the petrol station! You know when you read the bad headlines in the news, coming to places like this and meeting the local people soon restores your faith in humanity.
As the time comes to think about moving on, this place will always have special memories. New friends Jo and Les are keeping their yacht but have just purchased a plot of land with river frontage for not a lot of money. They spent many years before sailing living off the land, so for them they have come full circle. In many ways we have been a little tempted to put some roots down but the call of the Ocean is too strong. Besides which and God willing, we want to bore the pants off the residents of our future nursing home with tales from the seven seas!
The plan is to leave on Thursday morning about an hour after high water, as we are going to night stop half way down river. We had hoped to spend a night or two in Ayamonte marina but according to the locals, the entrance has silted up and we have a deep keel, so no chance of getting in just now. Hopefully we can anchor nearby and take the rib ashore. Rumour has it the restaraunt Puerto Ancha is the one to go to, so we will do our best.
Our chance opportunity of buying good value internet in Portimao will run out when we leave Portugal. It has been great to sort out so much whilst we have been here. Spares for the DuoGen to upgrade it to a MKIII, generator serviced, new furling line, vang taken off and fitted the right way up, solar issue diagnosed, running and standing rigging quotes, new anchor chain to be delivered to Almerimar, and all manner of research on sailing across the Atlantic and beyond.
Will sign off from the Guadiana with thanks to Phill for his help with the blog, and going to the expense and taking time off work to share this experience. Hope you found it as awesome as we did Phill, and thanks for the memory of your expression as we got the rib on the plane, priceless!
PS I hope that was just water in the bottom of the rib!
Had a fantastic time thanks Steve & Lynne, wouldn't have missed it for the world... and yes, that was just water!
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