Tobago Cays
With the good news that Peter had arrived safely back in the UK, we left Rodney Bay at first light to head straight to Bequia. It is about a 70nm passage which dictates the need to maintain a 5 knot average in order to arrive during daylight hours at the anchorage at Princess Margaret Bay. Not that it would be a huge problem as the anchorage is pretty straightforward.
As it turned out we had a fab sail, even on the leeward side of St.Vincent, which we normally have to motor down.
 |
| Sailing past the Pitons |
We arrived at dusk and spotted our friends Bernd and Birgit on the yacht Rebell. We anchored in front of them, perhaps a little closer to the shore in shallower water than usual. Having checked the navionics charts on the plotter and iPad, it became obvious that our depth sounder reading was showing the waterline depth and not the depth below the keel which we prefer. Sure enough the offset was missing so instead of 2.6 metres under the keel we had 0.4! Fortunately we had no swell in the anchorage and decided to stay put for the night as it was now dark. Several boats around us had no anchor lights on, so it was probably more risky trying to move anyway. Despite very little tide, the low water alarm did go off a few times during the night, so it was a relief when first light came and another yacht to the side of us left and we nipped in the gap, this time with over 2 metres under the keel. Lesson learned.
Bequia is a charming place, and full of fond memories from our first visit here when we spent Christmas and New Year in the company of old and new friends. It hardly seems like 5 months ago when we would look out of the cockpit to see Cam fishing off the back of his yacht Annecam. Strange to think now that Annecam is thousands of miles away in the Marquesas, and heading home to Australia.
Anyway, we cleared in with customs and immigration, did a little provisioning, and made arrangements to meet up later with Nautilus, Rebell and Ailsa for a pizza at The Plantation House.
Once again the food did not disappoint.
Before dinner we had a wander around to the opposite side of the bay and the small fort on the hilltop.
 |
| Interesting House |
 |
| With interesting slogans! |
 |
| Don't shoot! |
 |
| Glimpse of the anchorage |
 |
| Colourful houses |
 |
| Fishing for supper |
Perhaps we should also mention that it is getting hotter and more humid as we go South. Temperatures most days start with a 3, and humidity is in the 80%+ range. It is more comfortable at night unless it rains. Then we have to close the hatches and have sauna like conditions inside. One thing we need to prioritise is some sort of awning that we can keep above the hatches in the forward cabin to allow ventilation, but also keep the rain out. We had intended to fashion something from our old Genoa, but we are now thinking it maybe better to keep the sail intact... just in case!
During the course of our short stay in Bequia we received an email via a service called the Caribbean Safety and Security Information Service, informing subscribers that an armed attack against three people had taken place on a British registered yacht in Tobago Cays. This put a different slant on our plans. We decided to clear out of Bequia, and in doing so St.Vincent and the Grenadines, to which numerous other islands belong, including Tobago Cays. Our intention was to call into Tobago Cays for a lunch stop, and then carry on to Carriacou, which is part of Grenada.
As it turned out when we got to the Cays, we found that the perpetrators of the crime had been caught and arrested. With our minds at rest and the scenery sublime, it was an easy decision to stay the night.
We had taken one of the mooring buoys, but it would also be possible to anchor here as well. In addition to the cost of the mooring, which was about 40 EC, you pay a National Park fee which was 10 EC each.
The Cays comprise of five small uninhabited islands with extensive coral reefs, gin clear water, and an abundance of turtles and marine life.
The coral reefs provide some protection from the swell, but they also make navigation less straightforward than usual as you may be able to tell from the screenshot from the Navionics chart.
 |
| Screenshot from our Navionics chart |
In addition to Nautilus, we became aware of the arrival of another familiar yacht, Rebell. Now our little flotilla was complete. We opted to stay on board for a quiet night in, but the boat boys will lay on a barbecue, at a price of course. Maybe this is something we will take up when we hope to return in November.
The next day we all donned our snorkelling gear, with flippers this time, to discover what lies beneath. A short video below.
Thanks once again to Ian for tying a tether to Steve, as the currents can be a little daunting to those who are not confident swimmers.
The passage out of the Cays to nearby Union Island was fine, and we sailed there under Genoa only. On arrival at the entrance to Clifton Harbour we were greeted by a boat boy who wanted to know if we would take a mooring buoy. We wanted to try and anchor first, as we had heard that the moorings were in poor shape. As we motored round to the far corner, so did the boat boy who no doubt took great delight in seeing our anchor drag. As we only intended to stop one night we capitulated and took a mooring. It looked better than some we had seen in the bay, but no storms were forecast and conditions were set to remain fair.
 |
| View from the anchorage in Union |
 |
| Bar in the sea! |
 |
| Another view from behind the reef |
We went ashore primarily to go and confess to customs and immigration that we had actually 'cleared out' of St. Vincent and the Grenadines two days ago, having not intended to stay in Tobago Cays and needed to update our paperwork before we could 'clear in' at Carriacou, which comes under Grenada. Once we explained our rationale we think they understood, especially when we showed them the email about the attack in Tobago Cays.
With a rap on the knuckles and promises made to not let it happen again, we cleared in, and out.
We did only stay the one night in Clifton Bay, but the boys also found a bar with a table tennis and pool table that afternoon, which made them both very happy indeed.
Our next goal was Tyrell Bay, South Carriacou. This would be a jumping off point to go to Grenada. On the way to Tyrell Bay from Union Island, we passed a small but perfectly formed little island named aptly, Sandy Island.
 |
| Nautilus enjoying the conditions |
 | |
| Sailing past Sandy Island. Picture courtesey of Stephanie Sprigings |
When we reached the bay, Lynne noted the anchor windlass did not always respond to a jab of the down button. Another item added to the list of things to do...
We cleared in at Tyrell Bay, as this also meant we would be good for Grenada.
No comments:
Post a Comment